UK Textiles EPR: Building a Circular Future

Who Will Fund and Build UK Textiles EPR Infrastructure?

Unlike some other waste streams which have become subject to EPR, the fashion industry already benefits from a recycling network that has existed for centuries. The ‘rag trade’ means there is already a long-established network of collectors, sorters and recyclers. And that heritage should not be overlooked. Those already operating in the textiles recycling space hold the deep expertise and experience that will likely form the backbone of any future system.

Any infrastructure development should build on this foundation rather than trying to reinvent it.

However, the current infrastructure was not designed to operate at the scale or complexity that EPR will require. Media reports also suggest that it is struggling with the changing mix of materials used, durability of items and challenges with the overseas markets which have long been the main destination for used textiles.

Despite calls from various stakeholders, government funding for recyclers seems unlikely to materialise in meaningful amounts. What the sector needs is a mandatory tEPR policy with clear timelines, confirmed milestones, methodologies and certainty.

Clear policy and defined timelines give recyclers, collectors and producers the confidence to invest. Regulatory certainty also helps attract private finance, enabling banks and investors to back the infrastructure needed to scale textile recycling and drive long-term action.

“David Harding, the Head of Business Development at ERP UK, says: “The amount of discarded material being generated has to be dealt with correctly at the end of each product item’s life. To ensure this is managed properly with specialist organisations who understand the industry, producers and consumers must help meet the cost of providing these waste collection, sorting, reuse and recycling solutions.’’

UK Consumer Attitudes Towards Textiles EPR and Circular Fashion

2025 research on UK consumer views provides evidence that people are willing to support UK Textiles EPR charges when they're clearly explained. The study found that a 50p charge per clothing item would largely go unnoticed by shoppers, while £1 charges on items above £40 were found to be acceptable.

Critically, the research found over 80% of consumers favoured clearly displayed charges at point of sale rather than hidden costs.

Consumers also favoured simple traffic-light labels showing a product’s environmental impact. This could support eco-modulation, with more sustainable and durable products paying lower EPR fees, while less durable, mixed-fibre products face higher charges.

Why Innovation and Textile Recycling Technology Are Essential for UK Textiles EPR

Investment in new technologies and processes is crucial for Textiles EPR to succeed. Streamlined collection infrastructure embedded in policy, automated and AI powered sorting facilities and advanced separation and recycling techniques all require significant capital investment. These technologies exist but need scaling up to manage the volumes we're talking about.

Unlike packaging or electronics, textiles come in an enormous variety of compositions. A single garment might contain multiple fibre types, buttons, zips, labels and fabric treatments. Sorting this manually is labour-intensive and expensive. Automated systems using technologies like near-infrared spectroscopy can identify fibre types at speed, but these facilities need building.

Key UK Textiles EPR Policy Questions Government Must Answer

The Government's role here is to define the policy elements clearly.

These include:

• What counts as a textile product under EPR?
• How are ‘producers’ defined? – and how will online marketplaces be included?
• Will there be a threshold volume/number of units for registration? and/or for recycling obligations?
• Will there be separate categories – and if so, what will they be?
• Will different elements be introduced in future years – and if so, what is the overview and timetable for these?
• Will there be eco-modulation? And if so, when and on what basis?
• What actions are required of different ‘actors’ in the system – consumers, local authorities, charities, sorters, recyclers, compliance schemes etc.?
• How will volumes be validated (when placed on the market – and also when discarded)?
• Will there be targets for the system to achieve? – and how will these be set and evolve over time?
• Will the system work on the basis of ‘full net cost recovery’- and if so, what costs and revenues will be within scope?

These definitions matter because existing approaches to textiles are inadequate for the future volume and compositional challenges. We need new measurement systems and investment in collection, sorting and recycling plants designed specifically for the complexity of textile waste streams.

What the UK Can Learn from EU Textiles EPR Schemes

Circular clothing models are going to be implemented across the EU, even if the timelines for Textiles EPR rollout across individual member states are uncertain.

What’s certain is that the EU's head start gives the UK a valuable opportunity to learn from their implementation. France and the Netherlands already have operational national EPR programmes for textiles. Italy’s scheme is set for implementation in 2026. By the time UK legislation arrives, we'll have real-world data on what works, and what doesn't.

That’s not to say we should copy the EU model wholesale. The UK has its own textile sector characteristics, waste management landscape and policy priorities. But we can avoid their mistakes and adopt their successes. We have the opportunity to learn which eco-modulation approaches drive genuine design changes, and which just add administrative burden. We can identify and understand how different fee structures affect producer behaviour and infrastructure investment.

How Circular Design Can Support UK Textiles EPR Success

Infrastructure alone won't solve the textiles waste challenge. We need producers to be designing products with end-of-life in mind from the start. Based on current infrastructure capabilities, this could mean using mono-materials where possible, designing for disassembly and repairability and reducing multi-material products where possible.

Eco-modulation could be set up to reward these design choices with lower EPR fees. This would result in a producer choosing pure cotton over a poly-cotton blend, or who designs a garment that can be easily disassembled for recycling paying less. This would create a direct financial incentive for circular design, while simultaneously making the infrastructure's job easier.

However, it is also key to create a pragmatic system that can actually be implemented.

The market is already moving in this direction. Linen volumes have risen 73% between 2020 and 2025, viscose increased 54% and lyocell grew 42%, according to the AM Custom Clothing research mentioned earlier. Brands are selecting fabrics based on garment performance, longevity and environmental credentials together, not just sustainability in isolation.

The point is that sustainable fashion isn't about one material replacing another. It's about using the right fabric for the right application while ensuring it can be recovered and recycled at end of life.

The Cost of Delaying UK Textiles EPR Reform

Without proper infrastructure and clear policy direction, the costs will mount. Local Authority costs for textile waste management through landfill or incineration could rise from £73 million to £200 million annually by 2035, says WRAP, possibly passed to the public through higher council taxes.

Environmental impact includes an estimated 2.5 million tonne increase in CO₂ equivalent emissions per year from increased landfilling and incineration. These will only add to the estimates for waste management costs and imminent EfW emission fees.

These are costs that will increase at pace if we don't act. The infrastructure needed for effective Textiles EPR takes years to build and the existing experts need clarity to invest.

What Needs to Happen Next to Deliver UK Textiles EPR

Clear and decisive government action is essential to unlock innovation and investment. This means publishing the tEPR legislation and progress on the Circular Economy Growth Plan, this Parliament to establish a mandatory UK Textiles EPR scheme to create certainty and incentivise investment in the infrastructure so desperately needed.

Support for recyclers and collectors is critical. Without it, progress will be slow and infrastructure development will lag. This support doesn't necessarily mean direct funding. It means regulatory certainty, clear standards and a level playing field where compliance is actively enforced.

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